Peru lies on the Pacific coast of South America just south of the Equator. To the Quechua Indians Peru means "land of abundance."

Peru Trip

PERU: LIMA, SACRED VALLEY, MACHU PICCHU, CUSCO

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2005

Peru is a third world country with at least one-third unemployment. People live simply, depending on subsistence farming. There is very little modern farm equipment, mostly just wooden plows and oxen. Peruvians are of Native American ancestry, descendants of Incas; one-third is mestizo (mixed Native American/European). Peru's history has been a dramatic titleernation between democratic and dictatorial governments. With the capture of the Shining Path's leadership (a radical and violent opposition Maoist movement), more than a decade of violence in the Andes in which 30,000 people were killed, has ended. In July 1995, the State Department lifted its long-standing travel advisory against Peru. Today Peru's economy is one of the fastest growing in Latin America.

Lima is the capital and was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535. It grew as a seaport on the Pacific Coast, becoming Peru's most powerful city. Over the years, it developed into a city of 1,000,000. Downtown is partially revived after years of decline. The suburb of Miraflores is an old charming colonial area. This is the Land of The Incas. In its prime, the Incan city of Cusco was the richest city in all of the Americas. They ruled for over 200 years; Peru broke free from Spain in the 1820s, declaring independence.

Important to see while in Lima are: the San Franciscan Monastery, the Plaza de Armas, the President's House, City Hall, the statue of Pizarro, Kennedy Park, the Museum of Archeology and Anthropology.

Arriving in Lima at midnight, we slept for 4 hours, getting up at 5am to take one flight to a second flight to see the mysterious Nazca Lines in Ica. We took a four passenger plane; it was a rather rough ride. These lines are a man-made marvel visible only from the air. Carved out of the desert landscape by the Nazca people over an estimated 1000 year period, they include geometric patterns as well as animal, bird and plant figures; they are called geoglyphs. No one knows why they are there. Some think they served as a guide for irrigation; others feel it was a huge extra terrestrial landing site or just roads used for pilgrimage or a giant astronomical calendar to observe weather patterns. Their origin and purpose still remain a mystery.

What fun to take a dune buggy ride up the sand dunes at Ica! The dunes are straight up and quite high. The ride was like being on a fast roller coaster. A lot of shrieking….great fun. Be prepared to get covered with sand inside and out.

A must to experience is The Sacred Valley. It takes time to acclimate to this height of approximately 11,000 feet so drink lots of water and local tea made from cocoa leaves. Visit small villages scattered throughout the valley to view a simple and ancient way of life. Bargain for great prices at the markets in Pisac. Take pictures of the adorable children in native garb with their llamas and lambs. They will greet you with "Picture, lady…$1.00 please"; their mother is nearby waiting for the money. Stay overnight in the valley at a hotel to enhance your cultural experience. The handicrafts and home-made wares are so inexpensive, and you can both bargain and put money into their poor economy.

Alpacas, llamas and some vicuna are all over the countryside. Peruvians eat alpaca. Vicuna is very costly; they do not kill these animals, but they shear them annually. Their fur is more expensive than cashmere, and it's incredibly soft. Go into the Urubamba Valley; hike around ancient remains with sweeping vistas, and shop in the marketplace. The climate here is mild and yields an abundance of tasty vegetables.

Take an inflatable raft trip down the Urubamba River, one of the headwaters of the Amazon River.

Visit the massive Incan fortress of Ollantaytambo and climb up the terraces guarding ancient hilltops to see exquisite Inca stonework. Walk these ruins up to the Temple of the Sun where the Incas defeated Pizarro. Ollantaytambo sits in the valley of the Urubamba River where there is a complex of irrigated agricultural terraces…and they still function.

Take the train into the gorge of the Urubamba River to Machu Picchu. Stay overnight in a local hotel in Machu Picchu Pueblo (known also as Aguas Calientes), allowing two days to see Machu Picchu. Next early morning, take the bus to see this stunning sight. These Inca ruins rise miraculously out of the lush cloud forest, surrounded by incredibly steep Andes. The switchback ascent on the razor-like roads will leave you breathless. Impossible to believe how two buses could pass each other on these steep narrow roads!

The view you will see when you reach the top of Machu Picchu will be unforgettable! Keep in mind this is a high elevation; the tea and cocoa leaves help. If you feel energetic, walk the three mile hike up the steep, uneven steps to Sun Gate for a better view of Machu Picchu, leading to the old Inca trail; a walking stick will be very helpful to maintain balance for there are no rails to hold on…and take drinking water with you.

This lost city of the Incas, Machu Picchu was discovered in 1911 by an American, Hiram Bingham. Unlike other ruins in the Sacred Valley, it was saved from destruction by the Spanish. For some unknown reason, it was mysteriously abandoned between 1400 & 1500.

Stop in Chincero and visit with a colony of weavers (all women) skilled in the backstrap loom of old traditional weaving; it is all handwork and beautiful…no machines used.

Visiting Cusco is a must! It sits at an elevation of 11,000 feet, tucked away in the Andes Valley and takes your breath away, so walking is done slowly. Cusco was the former Incan capital, and it has maintained its lovely colonial charm. Stop in the markets for great prices on woven goods/wall hangings. Walk around the lovely colonial square.

Cusco has remarkable structures of huge fitted hard-stone blocks constructed in a uniform order. The Spanish colonizers used these as foundations for their palaces and churches. The Incas constructed the city in the shape of a puma. In the main square is its stomach, to the left is the mountain of Sacsayhuaman and the puma's head. Its body runs through the city; its tail extends to the airport.

Drive into the surrounding hills of Cusco and visit two very important archeological sites; the sacred spring of Tambo Machay (the Inca bathing place located in a peaceful, sheltered area); and the massive Sacsayhuaman site on a hilltop overlooking the city. This ruin is the ultimate display of Inca power and engineering skill. Its largest blocks weigh tons, yet they fit perfectly together.

Visit a traditional folk medicine ceremony. The local Andean medicine man (Curandero or Shaman) will perform a healing ritual with Incan roots such as herbs and healing plants.

Peru Photo Gallery

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