Ireland: The Emerald Isle. It became a separate country by treaty with Britain in 1921. First called The Irish Free State and later The Republic of Ireland. Northen Ireland remains a part of the United Kingdom.

August/September 2010

          NORTHERN IRELAND

We toured Ireland for three weeks in August/Sept. 2010. We started in North Ireland (Belfast and Londonderry), going South to Galway, Galway Bay, Aran Islands, the Dingle Peninsula, Killarney, Kilkenny, Cork, Wexford and Dublin. We had an opportunity to see a great part of the country…the Emerald Isle…well-known for its green landscape due to plenty of rain, as we experienced in Dublin. Otherwise, we had beautiful weather for most of the three weeks and an outstanding tour guide named DeeDee.

The most fascinating part of this trip for both Jim and me was Belfast and Londonderry in North Ireland where "The Troubles", as they are called, have existed throughout the 20th century. These troubles not only involve Catholics and Protestants, as most believe…but also Great Britain and a struggle for power and ownership. What follows is a summary of a rather complex situation, as we saw it.

Londonderry and Belfast, the capital (Protestant-Presbyterian 51%, Catholic 38%; 1.6 million total) have both suffered devastation in loss of life, total destruction of property, torture, bombings. etc., and titlehough much progress has been made, there are still bombings and terrorist activity happening. We witnessed the stores, banks etc, closing nightly with pull-down metal doors. Notice this on our pictures to the right. We walked through the neat, newly constructed neighborhoods, totally destroyed by past bombings, where children had been killed… with large murals on walls and sides of buildings depicting these situations. We heard about and saw the mural of ten of the men who went on a hunger strike while in prison and died for their cause, the Bobby Sands situation. The neighborhoods were either Catholic or Protestant; they were separate, as were the stores, shops, movies, in fact, most of their lifestyles were separate. Now, neighborhoods are cleaned up and quite presentable, but the signs, flags, pictures and murals demonstrate their fierce, strong beliefs and character. The orange, white, green flags represent the Nationalist Catholics; the red, white, blue flags represent the Unionist Protestants, heavily Presbyterian.

Political separation of the six counties of Northern Ireland from the rest of Ireland did not come until the early 20th century, when Protestants and Catholics did not agree over the issue of Irish home rule. Most Irish Catholics desired complete independence from Britain, but Irish Protestants feared living in a country ruled by a Catholic majority. In a peaceful attempt in 1920, Britain passed the Government of Ireland Act, dividing Ireland into two separate political entities, each with some powers of self-government. The Act was accepted by N. Ireland (Ulster Protestants) but was rejected by southern Catholics, who continued to demand total independence for a unified Ireland.

Warfare between N. Ireland Republican nationalist (IRA) forces and British forces continued. A treaty was signed in 1921 creating the Irish Free State from 26 southern counties. The other 6 counties of Ulster made up Northern Ireland, which remained part of the United Kingdom. In 1949 the Irish Free State became an independent republic.

titlehough warfare between Catholics and Protestants largely subsided after the 1921 agreement, violence erupted again in the late 1960s; bloody riots broke out in Londonderry in 1968 and in Londonderry and Belfast in 1969. British troops were brought in to restore order, but the conflict intensified as the IRA and Protestant paramilitary groups carried out bombings and other acts of terrorism. This continued and lingered into the 1990s, becoming known as "the Troubles." Despite efforts for peace during the 1970s and 80s, terrorist violence was still a problem in the early 90s, and British troops remained in full force. More than 3,000 people died as a result of the troubles in Northern Ireland. In 1985, British and Irish prime ministers signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement, recognizing for the first time the Republic of Ireland's right to play a role in the affairs of Northern Ireland. However, Protestant politicians blocked its efforts.

Further talks continued. Then, in late Aug. 1994 the peace process received a big boost when the pro-Catholic IRA announced a cease-fire. This made it possible for Sinn Fein, the political arm of the IRA, to participate in multiparty peace talks; previously Sinn Fein had been barred from such talks because of its association with the IRA and its terrorist tactics. The historic talks finally resulted in the landmark Good Friday Agreement in April 1998. Minority Catholics gained a share of the political power in N. Ireland, and the Republic of Ireland got a voice in N. Irish affairs. In return, Catholics were to relinquish the goal of a united Ireland unless the largely Protestant North voted in favor. With the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, hope ran high that lasting peace was about to become a reality in Northern Ireland.

Hope Proves False. In Belfast in June, the peace process faced another crisis when violence broke out again. A group of schoolgirls and their parents were stoned by Protestant youths as they left a Catholic primary school; the worst rioting in several years broke out. Rival mobs hurled gasoline bombs, stones, and bottles and set fire to cars. IRA apologized for the deaths.

The Bogside is a mostly Catholic neighborhood outside the city walls of Derry, North Ireland. The area has been a focus point for many of the events of The Troubles just mentioned, from the Battle of the Bogside and Bloody Sunday in the 1960s and 70s. The large gable-wall murals by The Bogside Artists are popular tourist attractions. Note the photos that we snapped as we walked through the area.

Negotiations continued during the following years with Tony Blair and Sinn Fein for full disarmament. Shortly after elections in March 2007, Gerry Adams, leader of Sinn Fein, and Rev. Ian Paisley, head of the Democratic Unionist Party, met face to face and finally agreed to a power-sharing government.

On the fifth day of our trip, we left Belfast and Londonderry for the Republic of Ireland (Southern area), but first stopped at Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO Heritage Site, due to its outstanding geology. It is an area of approximately 38,000 columns, the result of ancient volcanic activity 60 million years ago. Most of the columns are hexagonal, but some are otherwise; the tallest are 36 feet high. It is a site worth stopping and walking around to see. Then, we continued to our next stop…Galway, another favorite place.

          REPUBLIC of IRELAND

GALWAY

An enchanting city of narrow, medieval lanes, wood and stone shop fronts, bustling restaurants and pubs filled with Irish music. Galway was a thriving center of trade and commerce by the 14th century and home to the Spanish Armada during its western voyages. Galway City is the third largest city in the Republic of Ireland. It has a unique location on Galway Bay with Connemara to the West and the Connemara Marble Visitor Centre nearby. Its city centre is very lively with a youthful population.

KYLEMORE ABBEY

Kylemore Abbey (slightly north of Galway and the former mansion of Mitchell Henry) is the oldest Irish Benedictine Abbey, a community of nuns living here since 1920. The purpose of the Abbey was to provide an education and religious community for Irish women during times of persecution in Ireland. Many influential Irish families sent their daughters to the abbey. At Kylemore, the nuns opened their international boarding school which was originally in Belgium but destroyed in the early days of WWI; they left the community and after some time in England settled in Kylemore in 1920, establishing a day school for local girls. A section of the Abbey is retained strictly for the nuns’ use and is not open to the public; here the nuns devote themselves to their monastic life of prayer and work. This is a beautiful Gothic structure and church; the grounds surrounding are magnificent.

THE BURREN

This is an area of stark grey limestone hills with carpets of wild flowers bursting from deep limestone cracks in spring and summer. It has harsh lonely coasts with three windswept islands on Galway Bay known as The Aran Islands. The rocky fields are covered with small stone walls that seem to never end. The emerald hills have small mountains and ancient field monuments with unexpected prehistoric burial sites.

THE ARAN ISLANDS

A group of us took a ferry out to the largest of the three Aran Islands, Inishmore. There we rented a van from a local fellow, Michael, and toured around the nine miles of island, stopping wherever we wanted for the view, photos, or a walk on this beautiful sunny day. The Aran Islands have become famous for their beautiful wool sweaters for there are more sheep than natives on these Emerald Islands. Most of the islanders were born and have lived here for decades. In fact, Irish is still spoken here. Transport is mostly on foot or bicycle. The pace of life depends not on the clock but the tides and winds. Life out here has always been hard. The chief attraction on the island is the clifftop fort which we walked to see.

CLIFFS OF MOHER

These mighty flagstone cliffs offer spectacular panoramic views of the Atlantic Coast, providing nesting sites for thousands of seabirds. The cliffs soar over 700 feet above the crashing surf. This is a popular and crowded tourist attraction. O’Brien’s Tower is a huge stone structure to climb for great views. It was originally built to house guests of Cornelius O’Brien, a member of Parliament.

KILLARNEY

Here we travel the Ring of Kerry, a 110 mile scenic route along the coastline, offering breath-taking views of wild boglands, hill and coastal scenery. There are outstanding views of the Blasket Islands and the Dingle Peninsula. The town of Killarney is known as the centre of tourism in the Southwest of Ireland. It is a thriving commercial town with a great pedestrian area of shops, easy walking, and pubs galore. Killarney is a popular destination for partygoers. Killarney's nightspots are often busy seven days a week during the summer months, when the population of the town and the surrounding area increases significantly. A visit by Queen Victoria in 1861 gave the town international exposure, which it has enjoyed ever since. Nearby Killarney National Park, great for a good hike, can’t be missed.

DINGLE PENINSULA

On our way to Dingle, a small fishing town with a circular bay, we stopped in Tralee for a visit to Kerry Museum to see a remarkably recreated medieval village. Then we continued on through this unspoilt countryside with wild landscapes, sandy beaches, prehistoric forts and beehive huts…and a most spectacular rugged coastline to a lunch of fish and chips. This area is where the movies Ryan’s Daughter and Far and Away were filmed.

BLARNEY CASTLE

First, we stopped at a sheep farm for a sheep dog demonstration with Ireland’s border collies to see the important role they play in rounding up the sheep. We arrived mid-morning at Blarney Castle, a 15th century tower with a 129 step staircase leading to the Blarney Stone tower where, according to legend, if you lean backward and kiss the stone, you receive the gift of gab. This legend goes back to Elizabeth I, describing her endless discussions with Dermot McCarthy regarding surrendering his castle to the Crown of England. Surrounding gardens are beautiful for walking. We walked the tower steps to the top but did not kiss the well-kissed Blarney stone (a fee is required).

CORK

Cork City is Ireland’s second city (Dublin is #1). The center of Cork is located on an island between two channels of the Lee River. Cork has pedestrian walkways, so strolling the shops, pubs, restaurants is easy. The city was once fully walled, and some wall sections and gates remain today. It is the principal city and administrative centre of County Cork. St. Patrick's Street runs through the heart of the city, offering a host of shopping opportunities. Oliver Plunkett Street runs partly parallel to Patrick's Street, bustling with smaller shops, life and color. Second-hand books, hand-made chocolates, an infinite array of surprises can be found in the alleyways and lanes around this central shopping district. Heading west is the English Market , the culinary heart of Cork, boasting a huge array of fresh local produce and international delicacies. Following St Patrick's Street eastwards leads to the statue of Father Mathew, respected founding father of the Irish Temperance Movement. Off to the left, one finds the Cork Opera House.

COBH

The town of Cobh is the main harbor for the city of Cork. It was formerly known as Queenstown and a port of embarkation for the United States, particularly during the Great Potato Famine of the 1840’s where several million Irish people died, and millions were forced to emigrate. It was also the last place the Titanic docked before heading across the Atlantic for her fatal journey. And, there is a memorial paying tribute to the victims of the Lusitania, the ship sunk in 1915 off Cobh’s coast by a German submarine with Americans aboard, one of the reasons America became involved in WWI.

CAHIR CASTLE

An imposing 13th-15th century structure and one of Ireland’s best-preserved castles, sits on a rocky island in the River Suir. Granted to the powerful Butler family in late 14th century, the castle was enlarged and remodeled. It fell into ruin in the late 18th century and was partially restored in the 1840s. The Great Hall was partly rebuilt in 1840. It is one of Ireland's best known tourist attractions…now a national monument. The castle retains its impressive tower and much of its original defensive structure.

KILKENNY CITY/CASTLE

The vibrant medieval city of Kilkenny has beautifully restored historic buildings and charming narrow pathways for exploration. War and wild times have swept regularly through this little town; however, its impressive castle, a Victorian remodeling of a 12th century Norman fortress has remained on the bend of River Nore. This castle too originally belonged to the Butler Family; it includes a Gallery of Cotemporary Art.

WEXFORD

Dating back to the 2nd century, Wexford is a lively town with winding streets, a pretty quayside and an array of pubs, cafes and fine restaurants. It’s a shopper’s paradise with an excellent range of shops. Places of interest outside town include the Irish National Heritage Park, the Irish Agricultural Museum and the Wildfowl Reserve. Wexford has been attracting visitors from far and wide since Victorian times. Wexford is Ireland's sunniest county and boasts the country's finest beaches.

DUBLIN

Medieval Dublin was a tightly-knit place of 10,000 people, small enough that every newly married citizen was escorted by the mayor to the city bull ring to kiss the enclosure for good luck. Today it is the capital and largest city in Ireland with approximately one million in the Dublin region and same amount in the greater Dublin area. Many social changes have come about with the election of Mary Robinson to the Presidency in 1990.

The focal point of Dublin is the River Liffey with 16 bridges connecting its north and south banks, the most famous of these is the O’Connell Bridge. Grafton St. is Dublin’s main shopping street, very lively in the heart of the city, complete with street performers and musicians. At the south end is St. Stephen’s Green, the city’s most beloved park surrounded by rows of historic Georgian town houses, hotels and restaurants. Famous Trinity College is close by; this is where the famous Book of Kells is housed. The Book of Kells is known as the most beautiful book in the world....80 pages of Latin script, paintings with witty, humorous illustrations of/and by the four gospels. It lies under glass; the pages shown are changed every 3-4 months.

Don’t miss the Temple Bar District, formerly a run-down area due for demolition. Now it’s Dublin’s trendiest and most lively quarter. Stop in Gallagher’s Pub for a lunch of Boxty. There is a hop-on/hop-off bus service, allowing you to buy a ticket that is good for two consecutive day use.

Other sites of interest are: St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Nat’l Museum and Gallery, Dublin Castle, Guiness storehouse (for which Ireland is so well-known), Abbey Theatre, and the Dublin Writers’ Museum. Dublin has hosted a series of famous writers such as: James Joyce, G.B. Shaw, W.B. Yeats, Jonathan Swift, Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde and many others.

Outside the city via bus or train, make a visit to County Wicklow and see Glendalough, a 6th century monastic site founded by St. Kevin. Visit the nearby village of Avoca, famous for its hand weaving.

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